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Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Brea

Published Jun 03, 25
11 min read

Rv Camper Ac Repair Brea, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually drawn away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Brea. I'm presuming the repair service will involve changing that whole size of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger gauge screws to replace those that were drawn out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, major repairs, etc, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, etc, is fine. The back brace assembly is fine, yet the front one is broken near the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no more fastens to the camper. We remain in trouble. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound practical? Also the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier gray metal - it's the grey little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to ensure we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one item is broken it has to be entirely changed? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was all new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as recommendations regarding exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us through the summertime - without having to place in an all new awning! We remain in an extremely significant bind because we have a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I would certainly rather locate a quick and reliable service. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Renovation Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roof covering. In order to remove the 4th one, I require to get rid of the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally observe just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially before the final steps of this message (subjecting the front and back sides of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Below's an information of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't really need to do this step till the awning was on the ground yet I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just pull back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning installing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning. When the mounting brackets are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally much like a normal piece of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be removed. Here's a take a look at the round channel at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof covering like me, after that you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's similar to getting rid of the side trim molding on the other side of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to reduce completion with an utility blade if it is put under the rail) and afterwards just pull it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out!

Once the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) DIRECTS! When I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then reduce it the ground little bit by little by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning got on the ground I got rid of the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just slides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail away.

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When both set screws were removed I might slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can get rid of the old roofing outdoor decking is to expose completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rusty staples holding it down. I tore them out as best I could. The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once again I just tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

Nevertheless I may finish up eliminating it later if I need to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. The roof decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass transition need to be lifted. To lift that, the corner molding need to be gotten rid of.

I could turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched over from a scraper to a stiff 6 vast putty knife. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. Then I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened up the other edge trim in the exact same method, and bent it sideways just sufficient so that I can raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which means I'll end getting rid of those edge trim items all the way down. We'll get to that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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The edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much stifling but glue now) and then I could pull out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Now I can pull out the last bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. I started very carefully peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scraped up some of the busted bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing began to draw up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I don't recognize how specifically they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roofing was losing stamina and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so broke it off simply prior to the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I found a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The side of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting yet adhesive at this factor) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Brea. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not know exactly how precisely they managed to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are signed up with together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roofing system was shedding stamina and stiffness as I drew up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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