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Rv Camper Repair Villa Park

Published May 28, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Villa Park, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I didn't see anything amiss, however withdrawed both awning just to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the rain gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the best hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is glided right into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Rv Camper Repair Villa Park. I'm assuming the repair will entail replacing that entire length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger scale screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major repair services, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy trip prior to we realized the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out because it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is fine, yet the front one is split at the bottom and entirely damaged through on top, so that the top assistance arm no longer affixes to the camper. We remain in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio affordable? Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger grey steel - it's the grey bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to see to it we're not being taken in out of our desperation.

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like suggestions as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us through the summer - without having to place in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to locate a quick and effective service. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the fourth one, I need to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll also discover how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs ahead off first before the final steps of this message (subjecting the front and back sides of the roofing outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this step till the awning got on the ground however I noticed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the installing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the placing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing system like me, after that you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's similar to removing the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to cut completion with an utility knife if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply tug it out.

You might have to cut completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. After that just pull it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite quickly.

Once the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just moves right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once both set screws were removed I might glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can remove the old roof covering decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I pried them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some rusty staples holding it down. I pried them out as best I could. The following thing holding back the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so again I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later if I need to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the corner molding must be gotten rid of.

I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I can turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened the other corner trim in the very same way, and bent it laterally simply sufficient so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which implies I'll end eliminating those edge trim pieces completely down besides. We'll get to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply standing out through the staples. The side of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Very same deal once more. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue at this moment) and afterwards I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the busted bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to pull up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I do not know just how exactly they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roof covering was shedding stamina and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the very first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

It's simply standing out via the staples. The side of the roofing system decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the leading edge. Exact same offer again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down but glue now) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Rv Camper Repair Villa Park. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

Rv Camper Repair Villa Park, CA

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scraped up several of the busted bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to pull up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I can see the steel framing underneath. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the items together. I do not know exactly how precisely they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roof covering was losing strength and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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