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Anaheim Pop Up Camper Roof Repair

Published Jun 12, 25
11 min read

Camper Service Near Me Anaheim, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is slid into has retreated from the wall and twisted a little bit - Anaheim Pop Up Camper Roof Repair. I'm assuming the repair work will entail changing that whole size of rain gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing bigger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We've obtained broken braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, significant repair work, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we understood the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out since it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is great. The rear brace setting up is great, however the front one is split at the bottom and entirely broken through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Does this sound sensible? Even the actual support arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger grey steel - it's the grey little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it needs to be totally replaced? The RV is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was all new during that time. If nothing else, we would like recommendations as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly also obtain us through the summertime - without needing to put in a new awning! We're in a very serious bind due to the fact that we have actually a trip planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to discover a quick and efficient solution. Anybody? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Improvement Series!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I eliminated the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing system decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to come off initially prior to the final steps of this blog post (revealing the front and back edges of the roof decking).

Here's an information of how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step until the awning was on the ground however I noticed this established screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, just draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting bracket on the. Getting rid of the installing brace of the awning. When the placing brackets are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is primarily similar to a normal item of aluminum roof edge trim molding except that at the bottom edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, after that you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may need to cut completion with an energy knife if it is covered under. After that just pull it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite quickly.

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was attached under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly snap cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. Once the awning got on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the best end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides straight off the canvas by moving the whole rail away.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were removed I can glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The next thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I just pried up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later if I require to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the corner molding have to be removed.

I can swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I switched from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened the other corner trim in the very same method, and curved it sideways simply sufficient so that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish removing those edge trim items all the method down. Yet we'll reach that later. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The side of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down but glue now) and afterwards I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding back the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scratched up a few of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to pull up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I could see the steel framework under. Yet then the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the items with each other. I don't know exactly how precisely they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly realized the roofing was losing toughness and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so fractured it off simply before the initial seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The edge of the roofing system decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much stifling but glue now) and after that I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Anaheim Pop Up Camper Roof Repair. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scraped up some of the damaged bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing started to pull up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I can see the steel framing beneath. Yet then the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I don't understand how precisely they took care of to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The items of roof ply are joined with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roof was losing stamina and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the initial joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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